FELLS POINT: Fells Point, the other famous harbor of Baltimore, couldn’t be any more different than the glittering Inner Harbor. That contrast though makes it the perfect compliment to the lovely but touristy soul-lite district further west. Once the den of pirates, I mean privateers, it probably looks much like it did when it was confounding the British in 1812. An atmospheric neighborhood of small federal era buildings, cobblestone streets, and street names reflecting its British heritage, it is ghastly to think how close this dreamy district came to being destroyed by the Interstate Highway System, as so many other communities nationwide were. Thankfully citizens organized and stymied those senseless plans. The attention by this victory spurred a rebirth of the gritty area that has culminated in it being one of the most famous and desirable neighborhoods in the city. It is nationally renowned for its reputation as the community with the highest concentration of bars in the U.S. Although New Orleans’ French Quarter might argue against that distinction, there is no doubt that people from all over the country visit Fells Point for its varied nightlife. But this is not just some waterfront playground. The streets ooze history. It is easy to imagine shipbuilders and their families still making their lives in its Dickensian surroundings. Nevertheless Fells Point is not just some relic of the past, much new construction has taken place, thankfully respecting the historic look of the area. The Sagamore Pendry, a 5 star hotel, utilizes the historic Recreation Pier building, giving the striking edifice a historic and modern look simultaneously. The same can be said about the recently renovated Broadway Market. This is all quite fitting as that is what Fells Point is about: A contemporary community that looks like it has been there forever, because it has. Just ask the British.
GUILFORD: Baltimore, a gritty historic city of “rats” & rowhouses, or is it? Just north of Johns Hopkins University & the iconic Painted Ladies of Charles Village one enters another Baltimore, but you will be forgiven if you think you have left the city. You’ve now entered Guilford, one of a number of wealthy bucolic neighborhoods that are well within the city but offer a country feel, if you can afford it. Here the homes are quite large and almost feel like they belong across the ocean in England, or the Great Gatsby suburbs of the Gold Coast of Long Island. In Guilford, the city of The Wire, Hairspray, and crab feasts seems many miles away. While very convenient to Downtown, and even accessible by bus, I do wonder how much interaction people here have with residents in adjacent and much less affluent communities. In any case Guilford, with its winding tree lined lanes, is a lovely area to stroll through. Hopefully everyone is permitted to admire the lovely architecture, serene setting, and the colorful landscape. One such area is Sherwood Gardens. (I did mention the affinity for England). It is on Stratford Green and functions as a community square of sorts. It is nationally renowned for its vibrant tulip beds. I took the long walk there from Mount Vernon one Easter as it seemed like an appropriate activity for the holiday. I thought it might be quiet since people would be with their families. I was right and wrong. People were with their families, but they were at Sherwood Gardens and not at home or church as I had figured. Many were in their finest clothes playing and relaxing among the many varieties of tulips, like out of a painting by Georges Seurat. Still, as picturesque as Guilford is, its remote feel from Baltimore’s quirky urban energy leaves it cold to me. There are no destinations to walk to, no gathering places, outside of the Green that is. Nevertheless, if a big home with lots of green space within close proximity to Downtown is what you are looking for, Guilford and its nearby northern neighbors might be the perfect mix of city and country life you’re looking for, especially if you are a well paid senior staff member at one of the nearby universities, which take advantage of their tranquil surroundings, not far from bustling Baltimore life.
You captured ‘my’ neighborhood well. I look forward to seeing future posts.