Italy. What can I say about it that has not already been said. A feast for all five senses. Sensory overload really. It has phenomenal art, it’s an amazing classroom to the history of architecture, offers sumptuous wine and some of the best food you will find anywhere. Perhaps because of this wealth of treasures, one often gets overlooked: its people. I’m not talking about the stereotypical sexiness of Italians, but the warmth and joy they exude, a trait they share with their Mediterranean cousins, but honestly feels like it originated with them. It very well might have. The ancient Romans spread their culture throughout the region two millennia ago. In any case it is a trait that keeps me returning to Romantic Europe over and over again (well that and the food).
Several years ago I accompanied my cousin & her husband to Italy. It was her 40th birthday and they wanted someone to help get them around. I was totally willing, although I warned them that I had only been to Venice, Verona, & Trieste in the northeast of the boot. They wanted to see Rome, Vatican City, Florence, & Venice, maybe more. However they were confident that with my travel experience my lack of intimate knowledge of much of Italy would not be a problem. They wanted my ease in touring, getting around, and comfort in a foreign land.
Sometime during our trip the idea to see Siena developed. I had heard great things about it and it was near wine country. We also discussed going to Pisa. After some research, and the idea of fresh wine, we decided to forego touristy Pisa and spend a couple of nights in lovely Siena. Great choice! Siena is beautiful, historic, and very laid back. Its square is unique and magnificent, but not in a dramatic way like in many Italian cities. The color of the city is really like its namesake. In the sun it mirrored the warmth of its people.
After a warm day of walking through medieval streets and climbing up towers, we returned to the square. At a quiet corner of it we came across a gelateria. My cousins really wanted gelato. She sat down on the square and her husband & I went in to buy some. All good intentions! He was letting his wife rest while he stood on line. I would act as a very bad translator. When we entered there was a sign offering grappa for 2 euros. Booze in an ice cream store?! Yes please. I actually had not planned to get anything but I had never had grappa before and I was in Italy, and it was only 2 euros, so I thought “What the Hell”. When I asked for it the young lady behind the counter said the dispensing unit was broken and apologized. I told her no big deal, I had never had grappa before and just wanted to try it. As soon as I finished the sentence, a weathered middle aged man comes out of nowhere and asked me if he heard right, that I had never had grappa. His English was surprisingly strong to eavesdrop on my conversation and understand. I speak some Spanish, but if I’m not tuned into you, I will not know what you are saying. I affirmed, and he immediately told me to wait and then disappeared. I didn’t know what was happening, but I felt like I was about to be made a very happy traveling man.
When the gentleman returned he had this bottle of a gold colored spirit, which looked very much like bourbon. I was intrigued. He insisted that my first grappa needs to be one I will remember and not the cheap stuff I ordered. Before I could accept he poured a healthy amount into a glass that looked like a double-shot.
Now a little something about grappa. I had been told horror stories of the stuff from Italians on Long Island where I lived. Italian moonshine they said. That’s how they run their little cars I heard. However, after traveling throughout Central Europe I discovered schnapps. Not the sugary concoctions I find in the States, but fruit based spirits that are very strong and great digestives. I have become quite fond of them. It seemed to me that grappa was like used grape schnapps, so I probably would love it.
My in law, seeing my good fortune, asked me loudly what I was drinking and then stated he never tried it either. Way to be subtle! The owner was more than happy to oblige him with this grappa as well, so it worked. He described how good grappa is aged in wine barrels, giving it a nice caramel color, unlike all of the grappa I had ever seen which was clear. He told us to take healthy sips of it but not to down it like a shot. It was very smooth and warmed my heart. It was like schnapps but smoother and more flavorful. There was a slight grapey aftertaste. In Law & I really enjoyed it and the owner’s conversation, which now went beyond grappa, and into wine, Siena, etc. As we were talking he gave us another pour. I almost forgot that we were not in a bar or this man’s house, but in a gelateria! After the second one I thanked him and he had one more surprise for us. The dispensing unit had been repaired and now he wanted us to compare good grappa with the cheap stuff, so he filled our glasses again but this time with the clear spirit. There was a definite difference. It lacked real flavor, was not as smooth, but still was enjoyable (or maybe I was too drunk by this point).
When I asked him how much I owed him for the experience he responded 2 euros. I told him impossible, he insisted that he only charge me for the grappa I had originally ordered, the expensive spirit was his pleasure. I love Italy! That would not happen in New York! As we were getting ready to leave I reminded my buddy why we were actually in there, to buy gelato for his wife. We had almost forgotten! When he went to pay he was only charged for the gelato! He never ordered grappa (technically) so the owner was not going to charge him for any. My friend tried to tip, but again not accepted. We did not want to insult this man who was so gracious so we then thanked him profusely.
When we met up with my cousin she asked us what took us so long?! We had been in there probably 20-30 minutes. Thankfully she was enjoying the beautiful surroundings. We told her that there was a line and that the owner came out and talked with us. Although true, sort of, my cousin was not buying it. Maybe it was the smiles on both our faces. I could have been slurring I suppose. We probably looked guilty! She kept asking what really went on, what they were serving in a gelateria, but we kept denying any wrongdoing. (Was it really wrong?) I think we felt bad leaving a woman with low blood sugar alone in a foreign country. Then her husband gave us away. When he is drunk he giggles like the Pillsbury Doughboy. She poked his arm and out it came. Now she was on to us. “You’re both drunk! But how, what was in that gelato?” I tried to keep the ruse going but she was now headed to the gelateria and I knew the gig was up. We told her everything, how innocently it started, how it would’ve been rude to refuse the drinks, how cheap it was. I told her I could probably get her some grappa too. Italian men love to help women! She declined. She was annoyed but we all got a laugh on how 2 men went to get gelato and got toasted instead!
As a coda to this story, neither one of us were hungover, or felt any ill effects from consuming all that grappa in a short amount of time, except for a nice peaceful nap. The next day we all went on a tour of Tuscan wineries, and in one they offered grappa. Not as rich as the one we had the day before but quite good. My cousin felt she had to try it, see what the fuss was about. Now she understood. She was so giddy. Ha, she was corrupted.. I mean converted!