It’s been a few days since this Viking has been imprisoned. I have found myself reflecting often these last few days on my Scandinavian adventures when I needed a mental escape from reality. A few days removed from my trip, I forget about the terrible airbnb experience in Oslo, the torrential rains in Stockholm, the canceled trains to Bergen, the nerve wracking uncertainty at London Heathrow and the jet lag. Instead I reminisce about the good times. While I took some iPad photos most of my pictures were taken on an old fashioned film camera and needed to be developed. Seeing these pictures brought it all back to me, like a flood through a canyon.
Denmark was a lovely country. It has affirmed its reputation as the happiest place on earth. The Danes were so outwardly friendly and eager to please. Even the preponderance of English in the streets felt like a way for Danes to please foreign tourists, as it has become the world’s Lingua Franca (anachronistic term?). Copenhagen is also more cosmopolitan and diverse than this New Yorker had expected. Moreover, despite the differences, they all exuded this cheery Danish spirit for the most part. Funny that the counter cultural hippy commune of Christiania seemed the least happy place in the city despite their “helpful aromatic aids”. Copenhagen though will most be remembered by me as the party capital of the world. Weeknights, weekends didn’t matter. The bars were filled with people of all ages, and the streets active at 4am. Always felt safe. Yes the alcohol was expensive (stick with beer or cider), but it was cheaper than buying a ticket to a traditional show. I just enjoyed the show around me and starred in. Hamlet’s Castle was beautiful. Reminded me a little of Downton Abbey. There was that strange 20 minute ferry to Sweden that few seemed to realize they ever had to disembark, it was much more a party boat with stops. Alcohol being cheaper in Denmark than Sweden encourages Swedes to just take this Danish ferry all day long, back and forth. It explains why this little ferry was almost as large as an oceanliner!
Swedish trains had great wifi. We need to copy that here Amtrak and LIRR. Stockholm was picture perfect, a truly lovely capital. Can’t believe they almost demolished the old town in the 1960’s. What were people thinking? Anyway all the action in the city seemed to be in the Central Station, the busiest one I’ve ever experienced, and I’ve experienced many. The city itself, like the Swedes, was more reserved. You had to engage it, like the Swedes, to unearth the soul beneath the beauty. The rain did not help with that unfortunately. But I did get to climb up a closed bell tower in the old town and witness a musician playing the carillon. The climb up was terrifying, and down even worse, but watching that secret show was an experience I won’t soon forget. Gothenburg surprised me with its charm and energy. Maybe not as pretty as Stockholm, but definitely more vibrant. In a few years, after all the construction it could rival the capital for interest.
Oslo was interesting for a pretty modern city. Beautiful setting and beautiful people will do that. Another party town, but not Copenhagen. Had the best and worst accommodations of my trip there. The first night I had the best, most generous host and an amazing suite with a killer view. The second was something out of a creepy psychological thriller. Munch and Van Gogh together made me very happy despite the 2 hour rainy wait. The train to Bergen, when I finally got on it, was lovely. A shame that I was on the wrong side of the car, but I still witnessed the raw majesty of Norway. Too bad the people on that side didn’t seem to care about the drama unfolding outside their windows. They should have let me sit there. I was gawking enough! Bergen and western Norway were more beautiful than advertised. I didn’t get to kayak as I wanted due to my delayed arrival, but I did get to experience the fjords on a boat, and I’m grateful for that. I just have to return.
The food for the most part wasn’t spectacular, except in Stockholm, but it was interesting. Moose and reindeer were common sights on the menu and I had them numerous ways. The fish was delicious, although I could never get myself to order herring. In Bergen I discovered brown cheese, a local favorite. My delightful host couple were surprised I liked it. What’s not to like? It’s cheese (well not really, it’s a cheese by-product) and had a unique sweet, nutty, sharp cheddar flavor. Delicious on the local dense dark bread. They said they offered it to other American guests who were too timid to try it. It looked like a block of caramel and not cheese, but not off-putting. Americans are too scared of the unfamiliar.
The main thing I took home with me (besides another eagle sculpture) was how the people made me feel. I truly felt welcomed wherever I went. The Danes went out of their way. Caroline Wozniakis were always smiling. I found the Norwegians very engaging as well and could not be nicer. The Swedes took a little effort, but even they were very hospitable. Now I find myself longing for that pervasive cheeriness. People in this country work too hard and don’t care about the well being of strangers as the Scandinavians do. The same social contract that they made to take care of all in society is probably what has made Scandinavians so welcoming to guests and eager to share with us a little of their cheeriness. Skoll!