Several years ago my best friend and I decided to take a trip following the notorious Vlad the Impaler’s footsteps. We had both been fascinated by Vampire folklore, not the modern fables of pretty petulant teens, but the old timeless tales and that of course would include the most famous vampire of them all: Count Dracula. But who was the real Dracula? The iconic story was very loosely based upon an important and ruthless figure in European history, Vlad Tepes Dracula, Prince of Wallachia (not neighboring Transylvania, but he did spend much time there). In fact, we would find out that the real Dracula is not thought of as a monster in his homeland, but something of an anti-hero. Yes his bloodlust inspired his penchant for impaling his enemies, and maybe even eating his meals in their tortured presence, but he is also remembered as the man who stood up to the Ottoman invaders, thus preserving Western values in Eastern Europe and Vienna. We hoped to find the balance of fantasy and reality by acquainting ourselves with his history and the traditional beliefs of this infamous region.
Upon our arrival into Bucharest, Romania I must admit to not being impressed with the city. Although Vlad Tepes Dracula had founded this capital hundreds of years ago, I suspect he would not recognize this metropolis. It was chaotic and full of traffic. All of the old communist buildings were gray and dilapidated. The parks and people were lovely and it was interesting being in Revolutionary Square, but I was more and more looking forward to our trek into beautiful Transylvania. Due to my unfamiliarity with Romania’s transit system, particularly in the hinterland, I booked a guide through CT Tours. It was recommended by Lonely Planet and I thought the only surefire way to see the Wallachian places where Vlad spent most of his rule. Our guide Claudio met us at our hotel at 9am. He took us to Old Town Bucharest where the ruins of Vlad’s Princely Court were located. I was taken aback at how little tourist information there was. The Court was just… there. You had to know it or not. No signs, shops, etc. Just a ruin with a statue of his face. There was so much construction going on to rehabilitate the Old Town then that I wonder if it will continue to be neglected for long. I just hope they leave the ruins as is. Our next stop in the Old Town was an Orthodox Cloister nearby with a beautiful courtyard and lovely church. All of the Orthodox churches we came across were bathed in gold with gorgeous frescoes. We then had lunch in a traditional Romanian restaurant in the Old Town,where we mistook chicken for chicken liver due to the language barrier. Oh well. I always say you must try everything once. I ate about half of it, but I really didn’t care for it. You can’t say I didn’t try, and trying is what traveling is all about.
After lunch, we took a car ride into the nearby Wallachian countryside where horse and wagons competed with cars on the roads. We entered Snagov, a strange village where brand new large homes were smack next to run down shacks. The contrast was startling! We drove down a gravel road to a dilapidated pier. A bridge was being built to an island in the middle of the lake. This island is where Vlad is buried. Since the bridge was incomplete our guide arranged with the local monk to drive us to the island on his motorboat. The monk was a character. He lived a relatively isolated life, but I would never have guessed he was a monk by what he was wearing. Just seemed like a poor farmer. He had a mischievous glint in his eye, suggesting he knew exactly why many people come to pay respects to the island’s most famous tenant. On the island is a monastery with a chapel, under which Vlad is buried. The chapel’s frescoes were being painstakingly restored by three women. It was wonderfully tranquil on the island. I wonder if that will still be the case once the bridge is built.
Our next stop on the Vlad Trail was Poienari Castle- the real Dracula Castle. This was Vlad’s stronghold, precariously perched on a cliff overlooking a valley into Transylvania. You could see it for miles. What a beautiful ruin. Once again though, no signs, you had to know it was there or you’d miss it. We bought some juice from a shed outside the trailhead and climbed up the almost 1,500 steps to the castle. It was exhausting but well worth it. The views were beautiful and the castle-ruin very interesting. You can see why he placed his fortress here. Unfortunately for his wife, it also made a convenient place to throw oneself off of as suicide was the escape plan from advancing Ottoman armies. It was hers, not his, he escaped. There were a few hardy tourists there and even a small “souvenir shop” and “water-closet” (really a shed with a hole in the floor.) I love sights like this… world-class but undiscovered (except by the Aussies who always seem to find all the cool off the beaten path places I’ve been to).
After taking many pictures and trekking 1500 steps down, we took a terrifying side trip to a nearby dam and lake. The lake was lovely, but the drive on the white-knuckling Transfagarasan Highway nearly gave me a heart attack. It is a winding and very narrow road riding the ridges of the Carpathian Mountains. Claudio assured us it was safe, and the ride didn’t seem to bother my partner, but I have a deathly fear of such roads. When we reached the lake, which honestly was not far from the beginning of the road with a steep ascent ahead, Claudio asked if we wanted to continue on the highway. I protested but my partner insisted and suggested it was a good way to get over my fear. After about ten minutes of me moaning and going into a fetal position in the back seat, Claudio pulled over. He could not in good conscience continue considering my condition. My friend was quite annoyed, but when he saw me drenched, white as a ghost & gasping for air, he finally felt sympathy and agreed to turn back. I didn’t even know if I would survive the brief return journey!
After I no longer looked like one of Dracula’s lifeless victims we headed to the pretty town of Curtea de Arges, which was once the capital of Wallachia. There was another beautiful Orthodox Church there. Unlike Bucharest and Snagov, this town had little class contrast. There seemed to be plenty of money there. Everything was spotless and well manicured. Finally we began the two hour ride back to Bucharest, where Claudio dropped us off at another traditional Romanian restaurant near our hotel. The food and staff were excellent there, very traditional, affordable, and hospitable. Claudio really was a godsend. He was warm and friendly. He felt like a friend. Considering the length and distance of our tour the price was very reasonable. Most of all, without his assistance, we would not have seen many of the sights that we traveled across the ocean to see. Thanks Claudio! Next Stop, Transylvania!