On the last leg of my trip, from Barcelona to Ibiza, which brings a dose of melancholy as I realize that soon I must return to real life, one that I do not find even remotely satisfying. It has been great eating different foods, seeing how other people live and how people around the world perceive Americans, especially nowadays. I love talking politics overseas. People are just so much more informed here. Real news is the rule. At one point a Swedish woman I encountered said I was really a European in my attitude. I took it as a high compliment. People are just much more sociable and so socially conscious here. Maybe the two go hand in hand. Despite history, or maybe because of it, Europeans are not particularly religious. But religions teach us to care for our fellow man, so maybe they actually are. Friends often mistake me for a world traveler. I am not… yet anyway. I am a Europhile though, I just love life here. There are many different cultures crammed into such a small place. It is amazing that a one hour flight gets you somewhere completely different. But that makes it even more of a draw for me. Still there is a common thread that weaves through the disparate cultures of Europe. There is the modern but it is informed by an old world mentality that puts personal relationships above work, money, etc. While everyone had their smartphones, few locals were checking them every few minutes. They were actually talking, using their mouths and hands, to each other. Others were watching life around them. Such a refreshing sight in this day and age.
As I sit overlooking Talamanca Harbor on the island of Ibiza, I am seeing the old town rising up in the distance like a mini Gibraltar. I have a sampling of local foods in front of me in Spanish style, tapas. There is a nice local seaweed salad, a local version of black pudding, and ceviche. I am drinking a hugo, a drink I discovered in Venice. But instead of using Prosecco, Cava is used, making the drink Catalan. After all the wonderful rich food of Barcelona it is nice to have a fresh and light meal. Now back to writing about Barcelona, which was supposed to be the subject of this entry.
When I first visited Barcelona it had developed into one of Europe’s great cities. Seventeen years later it is developing into one of the world’s great cities. The Gaudi masterpiece La Sagrada Familia is much more complete now, a true jewel in the city’s crown. It also represents the city’s development as well. Barcelona is much more diverse than I remember. The second neighborhood I stayed in could well have been somewhere in Latin America. Felt more Caribbean or South American than European. Many other nationalities were represented as well. Truly great world cities have this characteristic.
Seemingly paradoxical, the Catalan culture is more pronounced than it was. Catalan independence flags were everywhere, complimented by the word “Si”. Good luck finding a Spanish one hanging from someone’s window. There was a rally for the continued union with the rest of Spain, and while it was loud, there were very few protesters. Luckily for them they all had great lungs! The Catalan language, while very visible 17 years ago, felt even more alive today. Barcelona felt less a regional capital than one of a fully functioning independent country. I will be very curious to see how the tug of war between Madrid and Barcelona continues. Yet dynamic Barcelona will not do away with Spanish culture. It simply will give it a Catalan touch as it does with Spanish tapas. The Poble Espanya is an attraction that represents all regions of Spain. Yet, it is also distinctly of Barcelona. Basque pinchos have been welcomed into bars throughout the city with open arms, but now they suit Catalan tastes. What a great surprise that was!
I read that Catalans are a common sense people (by Mediterranean standards anyway), with occasional fits of chaos. As someone who claims an ancestry from Barcelona, I understand. I am usually a very pragmatic person who gets into fits of crazy. Barcelona has ordered neighborhoods, and is very good at making money. Its metro system is world class. But then you have Gaudi and the other modernistas who created some of the most outlandish architecture the world has seen. But in Barcelona it all works. Maybe it’s because of that order with a touch of chaos trait. It is for this reason I do not think Catalunya will actually leave Spain. In this era of globalization and membership in the European Union, its ties to Spain do not stop it from doing what it wants. Its language is everywhere, its flag flies high, it is economically well off. If the EU ever disbands that might be a different story. But until then I think Catalunya will do the sensible thing and stay. However it will continue to have non binding independence referendums, independence parades, and bathe local neighborhoods in red, yellow, and blue to allow the chaos an outlet. The most sensible thing Barcelona does is the let the crazy shine. ***
***This blog was written several months before the chaos did in fact take over.