What a lovely little surprise Andorra is. Most people I have met have never heard of this country. The few that have think of skiing and shopping. While the mountains afford many opportunities for the former, and the capital city feels like one big shopping center with banks, the country’s charms are in its towns and its people. Going in the Spring is like its off season. Most things are open, but the pace is slower, more authentic. That authenticity makes you quickly realize that this country is not just some de-facto part of Spain or France. Yes its co-princes are from both countries, but the people are proud, and centuries of historical isolation in the Pyrenees have allowed a distinct culture to grow independent of its much larger neighbors. There is a vibe that is almost both Mediterranean and New England. Like neighboring Catalunya, the official language is Catalan. Strangely though it is heard less here than in Barcelona. All the signs are in Catalan, but the Andorrans have developed a unique way of talking. Everywhere we went we were greeted in Catalan. But conversation quickly turned to Spanish. Then the end of the conversation would conclude in French. “Bon Dia. You quiero un vino blanco por favor. Merci.” Andorrans are very keen to share unique aspects and products of their culture. In the capital’s incredibly tiny old town there was a shop run by an older couple and their daughter, Botiga Simonet. As soon as we walked in we were greeted as family. Immediately they asked if we wanted to try some Andorran drinks. I am never one to turn down a drink! We were given a local whisky which was strong and a little sweet, reminiscent of Maple Whisky I had in Quebec. Egg Brandy anyone? Quite good. Another one made from scallions. As one would pour the other would say we had to have local sausages with the drink, and of course cheese, and then you need local marmalade with the cheese. This was not a gimmick. Of course they wanted us to buy things, and we did, but not nearly enough to compensate for their hospitality. We had good conversation despite the language barrier. It is too bad that more visitors to Barcelona miss out on such a lovely place and their lovely drinks, cheeses and mushrooms. Or maybe it isn’t too bad. Andorrans want visitors to love their country, but they also seem to appreciate their isolation from the world.
Helpful Hints on Andorra:
International buses arrive at the new and beautifully set Estacion Nacional d’Autobuses. Online maps have not yet reflected this and guide you from the old station. Andorra is well served by national bus routes that take you across this little country frequently, but strangely and annoyingly, none of them serve the main bus station. One must take a 15 minute walk along a lovely riverside promenade into the center to get to these buses. Not fun with luggage. Don’t be fooled by the adjacent bus stop which is only for a local express bus.
Because of the winding, one way nature of the capital’s streets bus stops are not easy to find. Where you get dropped off will not be where you pick it up. Bus maps are hard to come by and still vague. Just ask a local, the people are very helpful.
Don’t rely on signage. There is some, but then when you really need it none can be found!
